The EX Bass Series 1989-1995, actually starts with the RG guitar.which was all awesome and all Japan back in '87. Ibanez was working with potential new factories in Korea, but wasn't sure if putting the RG name on these guitars would damage the reputation of the RG name and Ibanez. So they used the 'EX' name, or Experimental.I personally really like the EX's purely because they have the RG styling.one of the tech guys i worked with had a 404 in Jewel Blue set up to look like a PGM with pink controls and f holes etc.looked and sounded great.but it still is a basic Korean build.so if the one your chasing rises into 2nd hand MIJ pricing, i'd let it go. The EX Bass Series 1989-1995, actually starts with the RG guitar.which was all awesome and all Japan back in '87. Ibanez was working with potential new factories in Korea, but wasn't sure if putting the RG name on these guitars would damage the reputation of the RG name and Ibanez. So they used the 'EX' name, or Experimental.I personally really like the EX's purely because they have the RG styling.one of the tech guys i worked with had a 404 in Jewel Blue set up to look like a PGM with pink controls and f holes etc.looked and sounded great.but it still is a basic Korean build.so if the one your chasing rises into 2nd hand MIJ pricing, i'd let it go. I remember having one in high school.
Bought one in spring of 89, black, rosewood board, chrome hardware, PJ configuration, but it didn't say EX, but I'm quite sure it was an EX or a pre-EX labeled EX bass.After a few years, I really liked the sound of JJ pickups. Had it routed, custom plated with some EMG JJ's. Then I started to dig heavier strings, and that's what did it. The bass started to fall apart - literally. The neck warped around, fretboard & back of neck eventually cracked.
I might have the headstock still around and a bridge & knobs, but that's it. Really dug that bass.
I know this is an old post and I'm new to the forum. But I was doing some research on my Ibanez and came across this post. Thank you for the backgraound information on these.
I've had a hard time tracking anything down.I own a Black Ibanez EX-Series, 4 string Fretless. I bought it in 1995, back when I used to play a lot. Now my daughter mostly uses it on her Rocksmith video game. I've always loved it and taken care of it. I guess they are not very common guitars. Especially the fretless ones.I guess what I'm saying is, if you find one in good condition, I'd buy it. I have a black EX 5 string with 2 J EMG Select pickups.
Slim fast neck. I bought it new in 1994 and it's held up well through all of Michigan's temperature and humidity extremes, no problems. Except the electronics were junk when I bought it.
I first took out the worst pot and put in a 3 way switch. Later I just wired it in series direct to jack.
Eventually I'll probably get a loaded Jazz control plate and swap the parts in, but I like the series sound sometimes. I use a 130 B string set. I don't play it that much right now, lately I prefer the Kramer or the Zdressy.Mine has a 3 piece quartersawn neck. IMO that is the superior way to go.
I built my 6 string the same way.I happen to love the headstock, it is my favorite of any bass I know. I liked it so much I expanded it for a 6th tuner and used it when I made my 6 string.IMO they don't seem to be as pointy in person as they look in catalog pictures.
Contents IntroductionIbanez model numbers are used to identify a guitar model. Most Ibanez model numbers have three sections:. A series code,. the specific model number,. one or two suffixes.A model number could look like this: RG3520Z where RG is the code for RG series, the specific model number is 3520 and the suffix is Z. Sometimes, for instance in catalogs, the abbreviation defining the model finish is included to the model number, so you would get RG3520Z HBK or even RG3520ZHBK (without the space).For guitars of recent vintage, the model number is often stamped or painted on the reverse of the instrument's headstock. For earlier instruments, the information in this article along with the can be used to ascertain the model number.Series codeThe first one to three letters of a model name generally indicates the series to which that model belongs.
The series code usually is an abbreviation of the series name. For the models it's RG and for models S. For Steve Vai's signature the code is JEM and for his it's UV. Joe Satriani use the JS designation. Most other signature guitars employ a naming convention using the artist's initials followed with an M (presumably standing for Model), for example see Paul Gilbert's.Series code prefixIn some cases characters are added to the beginning of the model number before the series code. Some cases where this occurs include:.
G = model belongs to the entry-level line (e.g., ). JC = model belongs to the handcrafted line (e.g. ). US = model belongs to the line (e.g. )Japanese retailer spot model prefixesIn some cases Ibanez produces which are for sale exclusively by particular retailers in Japan. These models are identified by a prefix on the model number exclusive to each retailer. Some of these retailer codes are:.
H - Ikebe Gakki. I - Ishibashi. K - Musicland Key. M - Kurosawa Gakki.
R - Rock Inn. S - Shimamura Gakki. W - Watanabe Gakki.
Y - Yamano Series code suffixOccasionally additional characters are appended to the end of the series code, but before the numeric portion of the model number. These characters have specific meanings:. B = body binding (e.g.
). M = part of the of short-scale intruments (e.g. ). R = Reversed headstock (e.g. ). S = neck construction (e.g., ). T = construction (e.g.
)Note that some models may have more than one of these series code suffixes (e.g. ).For the introduced in 2013, models are given a two character identifier after the series code and before the number. These include:. IB = Baritone model (e.g. ). IF =, multi-scale fingerboard (e.g. ).
IM =, fanned-fret fingerboard (e.g. ). IR = Rosewood fretboard (e.g., ).
IT = construction (e.g. ). IX = ebony fretboard and abalone binding on the body (e.g., ). It's not clear what the X stands for in this case, perhaps delu Xe.Specific model number conventionsThe specific model number, usually 3 or 4 digits, defines the model and its place within the series. There is a certain system for the model numbers, but it suffers from all kinds of exceptions. The RG series uses this system since 1987. For the S series (including derivatives), it has been fully implemented since 2001, although it already has been used for some models introduced since 1987.
Other series that have used this system are the Ergodyne and Talman series. The thousands and hundred digits indicate the quality class (and with that, the price-range) of the guitar with the basic rule: The higher the number, the higher the class.The 100 and 200 series guitars are usually produced in low-wage countries with cheaper components. Most of them now fall within the entry-level line.Models with four digit numbers (from 1000 and on) now fall within the range, the higher quality class guitars, usually produced in Japan, although there are some Korea produced Prestige guitars. An exception are numbers starting with 7 (so for instance, the S7320).
This 7 indicates that this is a 7-string guitar. Actually these guitars are part of the S7 and RG7 subseries. The second to last (tens) digit defines the pickup configuration, whether a pickguard is installed and sometimes whether the headstock matches the body:10Single humbucker (H) pickup configuration (e.g. )20HH pickup configuration (e.g.
)30SSS pickup configuration with pickguard (e.g. ) orHH pickup configuration with pickguard (e.g. )40HSS pickup configuration with pickguard (e.g. )50HSH pickup configuration with pickguard (e.g. )60HSS pickup configuration without pickguard (e.g. )70HSH pickup configuration without pickguard (e.g.
)80HSH with direct-mount humbuckers (e.g. ). The last (ones) digit gives some extra information:0not specified or standard to the series; typically it has a tremolo1fixed bridge guitar (e.g. )212-string guitar (e.g., )5equipped (e.g. ) or missing a middle single coil (e.g. )7Seven-string guitar (e.g.
)8Eight-string guitar (e.g. )9Nine-string guitar (e.g. )New naming strategy for Prestige modelsStarting in 2014 a new naming convention was added for certain models in the line.
These models use three digit numbers where the first (hundreds) digit indicates the number of strings: 6, 7 or 8. The second (tens) digit identifies the quality class (as described above for the hundreds digit in the typical naming system). The final digit identifying the pickup/ pickguard configuration (as described above for the tens digit. These can be thought of as versions of the typical naming convention with the ones digit truncated.An example of this naming strategy is the, which is a six-string guitar with pickguard-mounted pickups in an HSH configuration.
This model is can be considered essentially a direct descendant of the. One can think of it as the RG 655(0).Other examples of this sort of naming convention include: (six-string with pickguard-mounted dual humbuckers with a fixed bridge), (seven-string with dual humbuckers with a pickguard and a tremolo bridge) and the (eight-string with two pickguard-mounted humbuckers with a fixed bridge).Model number suffixes For More about this topic, see.In some cases addition characters are appended to the end of the model name, after the numeric model number. Common suffixes include: DX (deluxe), E (EMG pickups), FM (flamed maple top), QM (quilted maple top) and Z (Edge Zero tremolo equipped). A comprehensive list of such suffixes can be found.Finish (color) codes For More about this topic, see.Last but not least, a word about finishes: it is important to know that the color of the guitar is NOT part of the model number.
For example the is available in black (ARZ300 BK) and white (ARZ300 WH) but since they both are the same model fundamentally, they share the same model name.A comprehensive article about finishes is available.VideoFor a thorough explainer of the topics discussed in this article, check out this video put together by Luc Craven.