The 4.5.4 Shop Floor (SF) coordinate measuring machine excels in tough shop-floor conditions. It draws its inspiration from over fifteen years of shop floor machine production experience, and thousands of installed units worldwide. It is designed to surpass the demanding requirements of harsh shop floor environments.Its most notable feature is its flexibility. The 4.5.4 SF uses standard 110 volt outlets with no need for shop air. Its compact footprint and roll-around stand, specifically designed to fit through a standard door, lets you easily move the SF series anywhere in the shop where precise dimensional inspection is required.Optional programmable status lighting on the z-axis signals the machine’s progress throughout the measurement routine. An etched granite base defines the measurement envelope in the x and y axes. Workspace LED lighting illuminates the parts being inspected in poorly lit environments.
An optional articulated arm supports the monitor and keyboard (shown here) to increase its ergonomic flexibility.The 4.5.4 SF integrates advanced thermal compensation to adjust for shop floor temperature gradients. Protective covered ways guard the machine’s scales from collecting dirt & dust, ultimately affecting the machine’s performance. For movement throughout the facility, the 4.5.4 SF has built-in vibration resistance, giving operators’ confidence in the accuracy of their measurements.
For operators monitoring multiple machines at once, Hexagon has developed the Message Light System, an alerting option to inform users of any errors that can occur during measurement from across the shop floor!Economical to own and operate with low up-front cost and simple maintenance, the 4.5.4 SF could be the most flexible CMM you've ever operated.Plug it in and start measuring!
06-27-08 01:27 PM -OK.here's a real novice question for the pros on this forum. Is is possible for 57' 283 engine to run (somewhat poorly) @ 180 degrees out? Believe it or not, I can't get the timing mark to show up and it backfires some but actually runs; regarless of where I've rotated the distributor.
I take nothing for granted since the car did not run for 8-9 years and I may also have put in in backwards when I primed the oil pump with a drill attachment. Thanks, as always.Gunk'57 Four Door B/A Sedan w/283. 06-27-08 03:29 PM -In response toThe damper has a rubber insert bonded between the inner and outer part. If the rubber breaks loose, the outer ring can slip and the timing mark will no longer be in the right place. Also, some later model engines had the timing chain cover pointer in a different place, so the damper had the TDC mark in a different place.
You need to pull #1 plug and rotate the engine until the piston is on the compression stroke and check the timing mark when the piston is at top dead center.Don66 Corvair (driving)57 2dr HT (driving)56 2dr HT (waiting to be restored). 06-27-08 05:18 PM -In response toTry this:Rotate the engine until the #1 piston is at about TDC on the compression stroke. This is easily done by putting your finger over the #`1 spark plug hole and stopping when the pressure stops pushing your finger off the hole.If the dist. Rotor isn't pointing at approximately the #1 cylinder, pull it and rotate it until it points there. There are an odd number of teeth on the gears so there are 13 places that the rotor can point to.
You wnat to start the rotor pointing at about the #7 cylinder so that when it seats is is pointing at the #1 cylinder. You may have to move the oil pump rod with a long screwdriver so that the dist. Will seat properly. Don't force the dist. Down as that will break the stuff inside.Next is that the plug order is marked on the front runner of the intake manifold for a nice reference.
Start with the #1 plug and go from there. If you lose your way around the dist. Cap, just rotate the engine a bit and see which way that the dist. Lookinga t the front of the engine, the engine runs clockwise.
Looking down at the dist. Cap, the plug wires run counterclockwise.Hopefully, the plug wires are all good. 06-27-08 08:34 PM -In response toTo complicate matters, the cam only rotates once for every two revolutions of the crank. That's why 52chevybob is telling you to make sure it's on the compression stroke. Otherwise you may have the timing marks in the right place but at the end of the exhaust stroke.
Which is why they say the distributor is 180 degrees out. Technically the crank is 360 degrees out in relation to the distributor. Is it back firing up the carb or out the exhaust? Hope I'm not just confusing the issue.
If your timing marks are where they should be and you follow 52chevybob's advice you should get it going.Ernie. 06-28-08 09:38 AM -In response toThere is another way to seat the distro shaft into the slot of the oil pump. Just set the distro in place with rotor pointing to #1. Using a remote starter, just tweek the engine around, and the distro will just fall into the slot. That's never failed me.
Also, after getting the timing close, I like to finish by using the rpm on an engine analyzer (about $40) and a vacuum gauge connected to MANIFOLD vacuum (the line that goes to the vacuum advance on distro). Adjust timing, adjust carb, adjust timing, adjust carb- all to max rpm. If the engine pings (too far advanced), just back it off about 2. at a time using timing light until it stops pinging.
This is NOT in the service/shop manual.Bruce'56 4-door BelAir, 350, Holley 600, Eddie intake, TKO 600, CPP P/S and A arms, Sierra Gold & Adobe Beige2010 VW Jetta S/W, 2.5, 5-cyl,6-spd auto.' 87 Elkie, 350 with 700r4 tranny B&M floor shift. The firing order on the block and in the book is 1843657You left out a number.18436572.The '57 intake manifold has no #2 in the firing order when Chevrolet casted it back in the day, mine reads 1843657.I have always remembered this since a teen with Chevys:1,3,5,7 drivers side2,4,6,8 passenger sideBob, is right about the finger test Comp TDC to find #1, then follow aligning the #1 on Dist.
Accordingly, timing should between 8 - 10 degrees BTDC for the 265, 283 at 1000 rpm if I'm not mistaken. Good luck Gunk.Jack-57CW1957 Chevrolet 210 Townsman wagon57EM - ELECTRIC MISTRESS. 06-29-08 05:16 AM -In response toGood news.thanks to everyone here, she's up and running and sounds phenomenal! A real comedy of errors led me to numerous wasted hours.let's call them learning points. First, thanks to Jalepeno and Don for getting me straight on the cylinder numbers.I've been working out of the shop manual and it clearly wrong; hard to believe I could have the distributor off far enough to have run (poorly) with the cylinders reversed. Second, thanks to all that weighed in on the right way to get everything to TDC with the compression stroke on #1 (52chevybob, PackRat)and the tip from Bruce on the oil pump alignment trick. Lots of smart, good folks on this forum helped me to success.hope I didn't miss anyone and if I did, just look thru this thread and my thanks to all that contributed.
Since it's only 0900 EST on Sunday, guess it's too early for a beer?Gunk'57 Four Door B/A Sedan w/283. 06-29-08 08:45 AM -In response to'A real comedy of errors led me to numerous wasted hours.' Well, dat be explainable. Ya be too close to Yankee-land, and picked up sum of dare bad, bad habits. Actually, some of the best advice I've gotten on 5-spd have been from our friends up north.I'm really glad for you, that ol' Bessie is up and runnin'.
Ain't it grate to know that the knowledge learned here has increased your hat size by three sizes??? Keep up the good work!!Bruce'56 4-door BelAir, 350, Holley 600, Eddie intake, TKO 600, CPP P/S and A arms, Sierra Gold & Adobe Beige2010 VW Jetta S/W, 2.5, 5-cyl,6-spd auto.' 87 Elkie, 350 with 700r4 tranny B&M floor shift.